If one game had to be my last of this World Cup, I'm glad it was this one. Germany's dismantling of England was the best non-US game I've been to, a matchup of two great fan bases cheering on two of soccer's powerhouses. It was about as good and intense of a second round game as you can get, and the players didn't disappoint.
We got to Bloemfontein after driving the 4 hours from Jo'burg early in the day. I was expecting both the city and the stadium to be awful - we had heard that the area is known only for it's constant conflicts between white people and black people - but was pleased to find both to be decent. The town is small but quaint, and we had perfect weather for both the longish walk from the parking lot and for the game itself.
We got to the converted rugby stadium early, but there were tons of British and German fans already there waiting for us. The two countries have some of the most passionate and knowledgeable fans in the world; it was great to see what USA soccer could potentially become some day. While the vuvuzelas were still as annoying as ever, they were complimented by constant singing and chanting by both sides, which made the atmosphere great.
The stadium was decent - it's old and plain, but well-suited for soccer and definitely superior to some places we've been (Rustenburg certainly, and I thought Pretoria too). We had upper deck seats, but the steep stands put us close to the action. We had a perfect view of the horrendous call on England's second "goal," and got great opportunities to see Germany's "precision machine," as my Mom put it, in the second half. The sun shone throughout the first half, and we wore T-shirts throughout the game, a first for us here in South Africa.
I'm still not completely over the American loss from yesterday, but I'm glad we originally expected the USA to finish second in Group C and thus bought tickets to today's game. We certainly went out on a high note. Now we're off to the local casino, of all places, to grab dinner and watch Argentina versus Mexico. Who knows; that experience might warrant a post of its own.
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Sunday, June 27, 2010
Ghana 2 - 1 USA
If the USA's miraculous last-second victory over Algeria was the apex of the 2010 World Cup for American fans, last night's disappointing loss to Ghana in overtime was definitely the nadir. Everything about the game - the transportation, stadium and result - was worse than we've been accustomed to here in South Africa, and while I feel lucky to have been to the USA's last game, I'm glad it's now Sunday morning here and we can move forward with the trip.
We drove overnight from Cape Town on Friday night and made it to Rustenburg - a tiny town two hours from Jo'burg - in the afternoon. We went to the Fan Fest for a bit to watch Uruguay play South Korea, which was basically a big dirt pit with a huge TV screen (although they did have good food there). We got to the stadium without much difficulty, and found that the place was the equivalent of a mediocre NCAA FCS football stadium - it felt like we were about to watch William & Mary kickoff a game against Richmond, not a FIFA World Cup elimination game. There was no roof, limited concession stands or bathrooms, crowded concourses and a track surrounding the field that pushed all of the seats far away from the playing surface. I didn't even get a good picture of the outside of the places, since there was no vantage point from where to take it. It's amazing that the "city" and stadium were chosen to host games, especially a playoff game.
The game itself was rough, too. Ghana's early goal - the third the USA has allowed in 4 games - took the US crowd out of it for much of the first half. The penalty kick goal got the crowd fired up, but even that was less climactic and exciting than a traditional goal would have been, I think. The team and the crowd both seemed nervous towards the end of regulation and into extra time, and once Ghana scored their second and their players began faking injury after injury to waste time, we knew it was over. We walked out disappointed, frustrated (both with the American performance and with Ghana's stall tactics), and dejected.
That being said, there were positives - even aside from the obvious fact that we're still in breathtaking South Africa where millions of people wish they could be right now. We had decent seats by the goal where all 3 goals were scored (we've had great luck with witnessing tons of goals from close range since I've been here), and we got to see another World Cup venue, albeit one of the crappier ones. And, if we had to lose to anyone I'm glad it was Ghana, a country who now has the support of the continent as the last African team standing. Their fans were out in full force last night, and they also had the backing of virtually every South African. I hope the Black Stars win their next game and advance to the semifinals; it would be great to see the first African team to make the semis do it here in Africa, and a long run by Ghana would make our loss to them a little easier to swallow.
Next up is tonight's England versus Germany game in Bloemfontein, to which we are currently driving. Expect one more post tonight or tomorrow, and then a recap and pictures when I get home over July 4th weekend.
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We drove overnight from Cape Town on Friday night and made it to Rustenburg - a tiny town two hours from Jo'burg - in the afternoon. We went to the Fan Fest for a bit to watch Uruguay play South Korea, which was basically a big dirt pit with a huge TV screen (although they did have good food there). We got to the stadium without much difficulty, and found that the place was the equivalent of a mediocre NCAA FCS football stadium - it felt like we were about to watch William & Mary kickoff a game against Richmond, not a FIFA World Cup elimination game. There was no roof, limited concession stands or bathrooms, crowded concourses and a track surrounding the field that pushed all of the seats far away from the playing surface. I didn't even get a good picture of the outside of the places, since there was no vantage point from where to take it. It's amazing that the "city" and stadium were chosen to host games, especially a playoff game.
The game itself was rough, too. Ghana's early goal - the third the USA has allowed in 4 games - took the US crowd out of it for much of the first half. The penalty kick goal got the crowd fired up, but even that was less climactic and exciting than a traditional goal would have been, I think. The team and the crowd both seemed nervous towards the end of regulation and into extra time, and once Ghana scored their second and their players began faking injury after injury to waste time, we knew it was over. We walked out disappointed, frustrated (both with the American performance and with Ghana's stall tactics), and dejected.
That being said, there were positives - even aside from the obvious fact that we're still in breathtaking South Africa where millions of people wish they could be right now. We had decent seats by the goal where all 3 goals were scored (we've had great luck with witnessing tons of goals from close range since I've been here), and we got to see another World Cup venue, albeit one of the crappier ones. And, if we had to lose to anyone I'm glad it was Ghana, a country who now has the support of the continent as the last African team standing. Their fans were out in full force last night, and they also had the backing of virtually every South African. I hope the Black Stars win their next game and advance to the semifinals; it would be great to see the first African team to make the semis do it here in Africa, and a long run by Ghana would make our loss to them a little easier to swallow.
Next up is tonight's England versus Germany game in Bloemfontein, to which we are currently driving. Expect one more post tonight or tomorrow, and then a recap and pictures when I get home over July 4th weekend.
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Thursday, June 24, 2010
Netherlands 2 - 1 Cameroon
Tonight I'm writing from the Cape Town rail station, where I'm on a Metrorail train en route back towards our B&B. This post will be relatively short, partly because the game tonight was relatively uneventful and partly because I'm exhausted after last night's drive and a lot of walking around the Cape Town waterfront this afternoon and evening.
Cape Town's Green Point Stadium is great. While not as large or imposing as Jo'burg's Soccer City, it's every bit as modern. It has a great open feel - it's very bright during the day (its translucent facade let's light pass through), and glows from the inside at night. The bathrooms were below field level and clustered together (rather than spread out across the concourse) which had a dungeon-esque quality to it that I didn't like. That was the one small negative among a sea of positives - it's an excellent venue within walking distance of the city center and the waterfront.
Cape Town is a low key, relaxed city, and this game matched the city's feel. Since Holland had already qualified, and Cameroon was already eliminated, prior to the game, both teams played a quick crisp game and took few chances. The Dutch had two nice goals, and Cameroon scored on a penalty kick - the first I've seen live at this World Cup. the relaxed crowd meant less focus on the game and more focus on blowing vuvuzelas and trying to start the wave, both of which were mildly distracting. I also learned that, in South Africa, a chili dog isn't a hot dog with chili on it, but rather a hot dog with flecks of chili pepper in it. I had one as an after dinner snack, and it was surprisingly good.
Overall, I really liked Green Point stadium. Soccer City is still tops, but this was second best of what I've seen. Next up: Rustenberg on Saturday night. I know that Rustenberg's stadium is a dump, but it won't matter; I'm excited to watch the USA's round of 16 match versus Ghana regardless of where it's played.
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Cape Town's Green Point Stadium is great. While not as large or imposing as Jo'burg's Soccer City, it's every bit as modern. It has a great open feel - it's very bright during the day (its translucent facade let's light pass through), and glows from the inside at night. The bathrooms were below field level and clustered together (rather than spread out across the concourse) which had a dungeon-esque quality to it that I didn't like. That was the one small negative among a sea of positives - it's an excellent venue within walking distance of the city center and the waterfront.
Cape Town is a low key, relaxed city, and this game matched the city's feel. Since Holland had already qualified, and Cameroon was already eliminated, prior to the game, both teams played a quick crisp game and took few chances. The Dutch had two nice goals, and Cameroon scored on a penalty kick - the first I've seen live at this World Cup. the relaxed crowd meant less focus on the game and more focus on blowing vuvuzelas and trying to start the wave, both of which were mildly distracting. I also learned that, in South Africa, a chili dog isn't a hot dog with chili on it, but rather a hot dog with flecks of chili pepper in it. I had one as an after dinner snack, and it was surprisingly good.
Overall, I really liked Green Point stadium. Soccer City is still tops, but this was second best of what I've seen. Next up: Rustenberg on Saturday night. I know that Rustenberg's stadium is a dump, but it won't matter; I'm excited to watch the USA's round of 16 match versus Ghana regardless of where it's played.
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Wednesday, June 23, 2010
USA 1 - 0 Algeria
When Plaxico Burress caught Eli Manning's fade pass to give the Giants the lead over the unbeaten Patriots in the Super Bowl a few years back, I had tears in my eyes. That had never happened before, and I thought it might never happen again; last minute heroics of that magnitude are rare, after all. When Landon Donovan scored tonight after the 90th minute, saving the USA from elimination and instead giving them the top spot in Group C, my eyes were teary again. It was the most emotional victory I have ever been a part of, and I'll never forget it.
I'm getting ahead of myself; let's start at the beginning. We got to Pretoria this afternoon after a morning drive from Kruger National Park (which was pretty awesome). After a quick look at the old Pretoria city center, we walked to a bar where tons of USA fans were loudly celebrating three hours before the game. We walked from there to the stadium with throngs of other Americans. Emotions were high, people were fired up, and everyone knew the stakes: win and move on, lose and go home.
The stadium in Pretoria was small and sort of crappy. A crowd of 35,000+ dragged in slowly; tons of Americans and Algerians were there early, but neutral fans strolled in just before kickoff. Americans were decked out in red, white and blue and were very boisterous; security officials telling people to sit down were met with jeering and resistance. From there, the first 90 minutes of the game were frustrating; missed opportunities, bad calls and no scoring.
Then came the goal. With most hope lost, the USA scored on a rebound on virtually the last kick of the game. The stands absolutely erupted, beer flew everywhere and everyone in our entirely-American section was hugging, high-fiving and screaming. When the game officially ended, the partying continued and spread into the aisles and concourses; everyone remained in the stadium for a long time. We ran down to the field to greet the team as they came across the field to thank the loyal crowd. Jozy Altidore jumped the LED signs that surround the field and leaned into the stands right in front of us, and I was close enough to rub his head for what will hopefully be some round of 16 luck.
What's next, you ask? We're now back in the car driving overnight to Cape Town to get to Cameroon versus Netherlands tomorrow night and see the city the day after. Because we want to see the USA play either Germany, Ghana, Serbia or Australia (that group is wide open), we're driving back the night of the 25th to get to the game in Rustenburg on the 26th. Then the next night we'll see England play in Bloemfontein - we originally figured the USA would finish 2nd and play there on the 27th. It's going to be absolutely exhausting, but I'll probably only be here once and have to make the most of it. Wish us luck as we drive across the country, and stay tuned for some thoughts on our Cape Town game some time tomorrow. USA! USA!
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I'm getting ahead of myself; let's start at the beginning. We got to Pretoria this afternoon after a morning drive from Kruger National Park (which was pretty awesome). After a quick look at the old Pretoria city center, we walked to a bar where tons of USA fans were loudly celebrating three hours before the game. We walked from there to the stadium with throngs of other Americans. Emotions were high, people were fired up, and everyone knew the stakes: win and move on, lose and go home.
The stadium in Pretoria was small and sort of crappy. A crowd of 35,000+ dragged in slowly; tons of Americans and Algerians were there early, but neutral fans strolled in just before kickoff. Americans were decked out in red, white and blue and were very boisterous; security officials telling people to sit down were met with jeering and resistance. From there, the first 90 minutes of the game were frustrating; missed opportunities, bad calls and no scoring.
Then came the goal. With most hope lost, the USA scored on a rebound on virtually the last kick of the game. The stands absolutely erupted, beer flew everywhere and everyone in our entirely-American section was hugging, high-fiving and screaming. When the game officially ended, the partying continued and spread into the aisles and concourses; everyone remained in the stadium for a long time. We ran down to the field to greet the team as they came across the field to thank the loyal crowd. Jozy Altidore jumped the LED signs that surround the field and leaned into the stands right in front of us, and I was close enough to rub his head for what will hopefully be some round of 16 luck.
What's next, you ask? We're now back in the car driving overnight to Cape Town to get to Cameroon versus Netherlands tomorrow night and see the city the day after. Because we want to see the USA play either Germany, Ghana, Serbia or Australia (that group is wide open), we're driving back the night of the 25th to get to the game in Rustenburg on the 26th. Then the next night we'll see England play in Bloemfontein - we originally figured the USA would finish 2nd and play there on the 27th. It's going to be absolutely exhausting, but I'll probably only be here once and have to make the most of it. Wish us luck as we drive across the country, and stay tuned for some thoughts on our Cape Town game some time tomorrow. USA! USA!
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Monday, June 21, 2010
Brazil 3 - 1 Ivory Coast
One of the recurring themes of World Cup 2010 is how all the South Africans are pulling for the other African nations. After Bafana Bafana, the South Africans are rooting for Ivory Coast, Nigeria, Cameroon, Ghana and - to a lesser extent - Algeria, regardless of opponent. At the same time, Brazil is one of the most popular soccer teams in the world. The Yankees of professional soccer, they are particularly well liked by the South Africans, with whom they share similar colors.
Last night we went back to Soccer City for probably the biggest spectacle of the first round - a night game between the Brazilians and Africa's own Ivory Coast Elephants. While the Ivorians had a solid fan base, there were yellow-clad Brazil fans everywhere. We saw Brazilians wearing funky wigs, carrying drums and blowing whistles and vuvuzelas. There was a band featuring half a dozen drummers and a saxophone player in our section, which added an awesome South American flavor to the game. Attendance was over 84,000 and the stadium was deafening whenever Brazil made a good play, and particularly when they scored each of their three goals.
We had good seats - not as good as our first visit to see South Korea play Argentina, but we still had a great view from the third row of the middle deck, behind the net into which two of the game's four goals were scored. It was cold at night (the norm since I've been here), but we were prepared and dressed properly. It was great to see Brazil play - they are aggressive, flamboyant and extremely talented, and I think a trip to the World Cup wouldn't be complete without this game. It was also good to see Ivory Coast give Africa something to cheer about, achieving no small feat by scoring on the mighty Brazilians.
Our next game is Wednesday night - we head back north of Jo'burg to Pretoria to see the USA take on Algeria in a game that will determine America's second round fate. Win and we advance, lose and we go home, tie and we'll be at England's mercy. I can't wait for that game - it should be like the Slovenia game times ten - but we have some great nature viewing ahead before then (we're in the car driving to Blyde River Canyon, the third largest canyon on Earth, as I write this). And don't worry - I'm sure we'll find time to watch some of today and tomorrow's action on TV, too.
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Last night we went back to Soccer City for probably the biggest spectacle of the first round - a night game between the Brazilians and Africa's own Ivory Coast Elephants. While the Ivorians had a solid fan base, there were yellow-clad Brazil fans everywhere. We saw Brazilians wearing funky wigs, carrying drums and blowing whistles and vuvuzelas. There was a band featuring half a dozen drummers and a saxophone player in our section, which added an awesome South American flavor to the game. Attendance was over 84,000 and the stadium was deafening whenever Brazil made a good play, and particularly when they scored each of their three goals.
We had good seats - not as good as our first visit to see South Korea play Argentina, but we still had a great view from the third row of the middle deck, behind the net into which two of the game's four goals were scored. It was cold at night (the norm since I've been here), but we were prepared and dressed properly. It was great to see Brazil play - they are aggressive, flamboyant and extremely talented, and I think a trip to the World Cup wouldn't be complete without this game. It was also good to see Ivory Coast give Africa something to cheer about, achieving no small feat by scoring on the mighty Brazilians.
Our next game is Wednesday night - we head back north of Jo'burg to Pretoria to see the USA take on Algeria in a game that will determine America's second round fate. Win and we advance, lose and we go home, tie and we'll be at England's mercy. I can't wait for that game - it should be like the Slovenia game times ten - but we have some great nature viewing ahead before then (we're in the car driving to Blyde River Canyon, the third largest canyon on Earth, as I write this). And don't worry - I'm sure we'll find time to watch some of today and tomorrow's action on TV, too.
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